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Thread: Basic tips on a spring over lift

  1. #1
    MOR Memberregistered userTrail King
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Kenna, West Virginia
    Posts
    2,187

    Basic tips on a spring over lift

    You can lift your Samurai for about $100 to $150 and fit 31s.

    Buy 4 spring perches ($10 each from Rocky Road last time I bought them), or you can make them out of 2x2 square tubing.
    You will need a d-shaft spacer for the rear d-shaft (about $40)
    You will also need longer brake lines in the front.
    On the rear brake line, I cut the mount from the frame and welded an 1/8 plate extension to lower it about 3-inches.

    When you weld the spring perches on, make sure box them in (make them look like the Rocky Road Mounts just weld a flat piece on the front and rear of the mount to the housing. You must box the mounts because the axle tube thickness is super thin and it will crush due to spring wrap, jumping, or fatigue. Ive crushed several tubes before I learned.

    I would also truss the axle while you had it out. I used angle iron welded to the front of the axle tube to keep it from bending.

    Here are the part numbers for brake lines.
    Front - 83 honda Accord FRONT either side(20") napa# 38673
    Rear - front brake hose for a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX(23 3/8")NAPA part #38688

    Soon after you will want/need decent shocks, and some sort of high steer. I think the Rocky Road Outfitters stage 1 is the best deal on the market for a high steer. That is what Ive got. Use the stock tie rod. You can beef it up by sleeving it pipe like Lorne did. I have bent mine many times, Lornes is still straight.

    T-case gears:
    Skip buying the 4:1 t-case gears and go straight for the trail tough 6.38:1
    You cannot wheel it with out t-case gears.
    The stock low range on stock tires is marginal at best, on 30-31s it makes it useless off road. Many have tried it, and after the clutch is cooked they get gears.

    I ran 4:1 t-case gears from Calmini for about 3 years. It was OK, but I always wanted more gear. I three pedaled like crazy and smoked the clutch when it got tough, but then again I doubt many will be running rattlerock with this set up. Even at Slade on widow maker, you really have to 3 pedal a lot. If you are a good wheel man, you will be able to deal with it, but you can always use more gear.

    When you weld the spring perches in the rear, tilt the pinion 2-degrees up. Weld the front ones parallel or within 1-degree. Any more and you will screw up the castor. Use stock length shackles. Long shackles are the devil and cause more stress and slop in suspension, wears out bushings, and screws up castor angle, d-line geometry, and causes more spring wrap.

    If I remember correctly, you will also need a driveline spacer in the rear. I ran the stock front d-shaft on stock springs, the flex is so poor that I never pulled out of the splines but it was close.
    The rear must have a spacer or it will pull out of the splines if I remember correctly.

    If you want to run a longer shock.
    I made my lower shock mounts out of 2x2 and welded them to the top of the axle. I made an upper mount from 1 square stock that bolted to the stock shock locations and welded 2x2 mounts to them where the shock mounts pointed toward the center. I ran a gas shock off the rear of a 82 F-150 because I had new ones in the garage. In the front I used and f-250 shock tower cut to fit with a Rancho 5010 equivalent.

    When you replace the t-case gears, beef up the stock mounts.
    I welded a 1.5 box tubing on the long side and plated the short side. I kept tearing the stock t-case rubber mounts, so I made mounts using a bolt and poly shock bushings.
    Use blue lock tight on the bolts that go into the t-case. Most t-cases are cracked by loose bolts.

    I still ended up tearing a one of the t-case mounts off the frame and bending the long side mount, but that was my fault. I preztled a front spring and kept driving to the end of the trail. The d-shaft hit the cross member several times and did the damage.

    If you have the time and money, throw some YJ or CJ front springs on the rear, and the samurai rears on the front. I destroyed a bunch of stock CJ packs on the rear until I found a 5-leaf spring pack (thanks Russ) and left the bands on the pack. They have been on for a couple of years now.

    The deeper you get into it, the more money you will have to spend. So stop at what you can afford and wheel it, break it, fix it, and repeat :finger:
    Pain and adversity are inevitable
    How you handle them defines your character
    Just hanging out on the dog farm waiting for the next revolution

  2. #2
    MOR Memberregistered user
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Summersville,WV
    Posts
    243
    just picked up a sammi what modifications are required to clear 37's lol
    bits and pieces and remaines of jeeps

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